Ok, for some reason tech inspection always used to kinda freak me out. When starting out, it can seem overwhelming. What do I need to do, will I pass, did I do it well enough?? But it's actually not that bad, and it's better that they run tech at a track, than not. I've ridden where there was no tech inspection, and it's a lil creepy. Especially because my one big crash was caused by someone leaking oil onto the track (a lot of oil). That said, they did have tech inspection at that event (ESMRA at Etown).
Rules for tech can be found here, for ESMRA. Note - these are race rules, but they apply to most non-race track days too. 'Cept you don't really need numbers on track days. THere are some things listed that I haven't seen them check, but the below, you definitely had better have done. or you won't be riding.
So tech is alright. What you need to cover are the following:
CATCH CAN(S)
People fashion these out of red bull cans sometimes, but most places have stopped accepting this as a legit catch can. Simplest is to buy yourself one that is specifically for supermoto. I got a
UFO one (image below) that works well and is pretty unobtrusive. I even keep it on when riding motocross with no complaints or issues.

Note, if you have a street bike, your radiator probably already has an overflow area (my DRZ did), so you're really just routing in the carb hoses, and the oil breather. Full-on dirt bikes need everything routed in. When you see how I did mine, with one "can," it works well. Supermoto engineering have one that is more like a tube, but this just takes care of your carb lines. You will still need another can for oil and coolant overflow (or two separate ones). When I had a DRZ street bike, this wasn't a concern, so just routing carb hoses into the
Supermoto Engineering hose did the trick.
DRILLING AND SAFETY WIRING
Oil Drain Bolts Drilled
You can either try to drill these while they are on the bike, take 'em off and put them in a vice, or put them in a drill press. All are various studies n frustration. Get a small drill bit size (exact coming, but make it small!) and safety wire (that is coming too, with photo), and get to work. Get EXTRA drill bits, especially if you try to drill while the bits are on the bike. You will break many bits. Drill press works best, but a vice does well. I've not gone the drill press route.
You can get as fancy as you want with the wiring bit, but basically, wire the bolt to something that won't move, or you may need to wire it to another hole, that you drill (chose wisely). A great solution on the CRF was to wire the two drain bolts together. The goal is to both show that the bolts were paid attention to and tightened, and to ensure that the bolts can't come undone on their own volition.
I also drills the caps, which some places require. Go ahead and do it, the oil caps are only plastic, it is a piece of cake to wire those.
Radiator Cap drilled and wired
The one is pretty easy to drill into, just throw it in a vice, put a TINY hole in the outside of the cap, and drill. I tie it off, by wire, to the cables runnung by the radiator. Not technically great., but seems to do the trick.
COOLANT
You need to run a non-slippery coolant when racing. You don't want to be the guy who crashed and ruined a section of the track, so do it, even though they can't really check your coolant. Lots of people use Water Wetter, which is mixed with water. I ran 'Engine Ice' which is track approved at most places. From ESMRA - Water-cooled engines may use plain water, or water with WaterWetter, or Engine Ice (or similar product). Glycol based antifreeze or water pump lubricants of any kind are strictly prohibited.
PHOTOS
Note - I will be adding photos for all of the above soon as it gets warmer. Just wanted to take this chance to write.